Andaman…. A `Kalapani` transformed into a tourist paradise

Andaman for long was associated with the word `Kalapani`.  Because it was a penal settlement where the British kept dangerous criminals and revolutionaries in solitary confinement and inflicted untold miseries on them to break their will. Besides the sea surrounding the islands was deep blue in colour which was also a reason why it was called `Kalapani`.

Andaman is today slowly emerging as a popular tourist destination. With lovely and alluring beaches, dense forests and endless variety of exotic flowers and birds, the pristine islands of Andaman & Nicobar shimmer like emerald in the Bay of Bengal.  Andaman offers a choice of activities for all those seeking some adventure during  their travel. The sea around the Islands offer opportunities for  water sports like Scuba diving, Snorkelling, Sea walking, Coral safari on a Semi submarine besides trekking, fishing and kayaking . No wonder that Andaman is referred to as the `Diving Destination`!

I was a part of a group of Rotarians and families on a three day trip to this Union Territory located in the Bay of Bengal.  A 135 minutes flight from Chennai took us to Port Blair, the capital of Andaman & Nicobar Islands, an archipelago of 572 islands out of which 38 are inhabited islands connected with Port Blair by road or sea. Until mid-seventies the islands were notorious for tribals who were Cannibals . Some of these Jarawa and other tribes are still found in Nicobar Islands where entry to tourists is prohibited.

We had many pleasant and unpleasant experiences.  Let me start with the unpleasant experience which almost derailed our trip. On our way to the hotel from the airport, when our  bus neared  the designated Hotel-Western Park   located in a by lane in the heart of the city, our collective hearts sank. Not only was it not a Resort Hotel but was like a `Hole in the wall` facility meant for tourists looking for budget hotels. Besides, as we entered the Hotel lobby, an unbearable stench activated respiratory problems of many in the group. Checking into the rooms brought us more shocks. Many in the group discovered cockroaches and rats for company. The rooms were very small with even smaller beds for twin sharing. While the size of beds might have suited the couples in the group, it was certainly not an interesting prospect for a Sexagenarian like me to climb over my Octogenarian friend, with whom I was sharing the room, every time I had to get out of the bed. Fortunately the three day programme was not only interesting but also helped the group bond well and enjoy the trip.

The first item post lunch on the first day was a visit to the famous `Cellular Jail`. It  consists  of  two rows of three storied structures consisting of 698  dingy cells measuring 13`5`x 7` with a ventilator of 3` x 1` nearly 10` above the floor at the back and having a small iron grilled door in front.  A conducted tour of the place was truly awe inspiring to many visitors!  But senior citizens and the disabled might find the long walk around the Cells a bit taxing. Attending the `Light & Sound Show` held in the evening on the spacious courtyard of the jail  is a must for all visitors. Listening to the stories of the atrocities perpetrated on the prisoners by the British masters was a moving experience. Unfortunately the Voice over which was in Hindi, (available in English on alternate days) not understood by many in our group, put several of them to sleep. I also found the overlap of voice with the overpowering background music and sound effects, disturbing.

Before attending the show at the Cellular jail, we had visited the Corbyn`s  Cove beach within the city. As a person who lives very close to the beautiful Elliots beach in Chennai, I did not feel excited about this beach.

The second day morning saw the group reporting at the Pier at 7.30 am for a Boat ride to Havelock islands, which boasts of several beautiful beaches and beach resorts. Every one must carry an ID card ( aadhar)which is checked by  security  at every stage until we boarded a boat with three air conditioned decks and  a seating capacity of 300.  It took us 135 minutes to reach the Havelock port. During the trip, apart from the mandatory Hindi movie on view, the management of the Boat had  also organised for  loud music on the top deck. Many youngsters were seen dancing to kill time because one can easily get tired of watching the sea.

On landing at the port, we were whisked in a bus to Radha Nagar Beach, which is a 30 minutes ride through lovely greenery. I felt that the Radha Nagar beach fully deserved its reputation as one of the most beautiful beaches in the world. Unlike the long stretches of Sand in Madras beaches the Radha Nagar beach is surrounded by beautiful trees, many of them forming canopies giving the beach a lovely ambience. The towering Palm trees and  the  greenery all around make it a sight to behold!. Many in the group went for swimming  or went on speed boats while senior citizens like me in the group were content relaxing on the several benches on the beach savouring the wonders of nature. After a quick meal at a restaurant near the port we were back in the boat for an uneventful return journey when most in the group were found catching up on their sleep .

The third day began with a lot of excitement because we were going to visit  two important tourist spots. The first  was the historic Ross Island  which was used as an Army  headquarters by the British where the officers lived a life of luxury.  In 1942, during  the second world war, the Japanese Army  drove  the British  out of  the island. The Government  of India which took over the Island has managed to make it a tourist friendly place where visitors can see the ruins of the Club House, the Church,  the Swimming pool,  Tennis court, Commissioners bungalow, Troop`s barracks, Bakery and other such facilities used by the British officers that  are maintained as Museum pieces. A well laid out tourist path covers all the facilities within an hour. There are battery operated cars to take the disabled and senior citizens around the facilities. The Island is kept clean and it is a pleasure walking around the facilities . There is, however, only one Cafeteria  catering to the visitors with limited items. At 10.30 am we could not get a cup of coffee because the vendor had run out of milk!

North Bay Island, the next destination on our agenda,  is known for its water sports facilities like Scuba diving, Snorkelling, Dolphin Rides, and many more. Scuba diving, at Rs.3,500 for a 30 minutes experience , is expensive. But a few youngsters in the group  decided to give it a try. They  had to wear special swim suits  and gears provided by the sports operator. After they  passed  the mandatory health check up they were accompanied  by a  trained guide to ensure safety. Undoubtedly it was a memorable experience and those  who successfully completed the trip came back beaming with joy holding a certificate of participation and  photos taken under water. While no one went for snorkelling, a few opted for viewing the Coral reef by taking the Semi submarines which provides a panoramic view of the coral reef through the glass windows surrounding the basement of the boat. Unfortunately, due to sudden change in the weather conditions this trip was cancelled by the operator. When we asked one of the Boat operators, ~who decides to cancel the trip ?`, his spontaneous response `` Ooperwala` floored us.  On probing further he said that while it was God`s will to change the weather conditions, It was the owner of the Boat who gave instructions to cancel the trip, in the interest of the safety of the tourists.

While the predicted bad weather did not materialise into heavy rains it had made the Sea very rough. The thirty minutes of the return journey on the choppy seas  when the boat was swaying heavily found the whole group screaming with fear and excitement. Fortunately nothing untoward happened and we reached the shore safely in time to have a quick visit to a shopping mall to buy some mementos. A  Bon fire without the fire arranged at a  hotel hall saw the group relaxing and   enjoying their  last night in  Andaman.

`All is well that ends well` is the saying that came to my mind when we were returning to Chennai next morning, with pleasant memories of our trip. Andaman is  worth a visit in one`s lifetime! But please plan for a five day trip if you want to experience all the available activities.

For those who are planning a trip to Andaman I would like to give the following tips:

1 While deciding on the Hotels don`t go by the beautiful pictures of the hotels & facilities featured on the websites of the hotel. They can be deceptive. Better to check with people who have visited the place earlier. Ideally deal with a local travel agent directly.

2. Three days are not enough to fully experience Andaman and its beautiful beaches & activities. Plan for atleast a five day trip. For more details visit the very informative website on  Andaman

  3.  Spend at least two days in Havelock islands which  boasts of  many lovely locations.

  4. Carry enough cash to enjoy many of the water sports activities because they are expensive. ATM`s are available for those who don`t believe in carrying too much cash.

 5. Most of the islands do not have good restaurants . Food becomes a problem on your visits to  different islands. Pre packed lunch is one solution I would recommend.

 6. Please remember that you are not allowed to take away any sea shells or even a grain of sand from the beaches of Andaman as a memento. The activity is strictly prohibited. At the airport there is a special security check up to catch people who are breaking this rule.

7. Majority of the population is Bengali  closely followed by the  Tamils, Telugus  and others. Hindi is the common language used by every one including all the shop keepers.

 8.  December to May is considered the best time to visit Andaman, especially if you are interested in diving activities.

9. Don`t forget to carry an identity card like Aadhar or Driving license because you need it at every security check before boarding a boat. Only children below 2 years are exempted.

10. Carrying an umbrella or rain coat is recommended to protect oneself from sudden rains.