Thursday, October 6, 2022

A memorable trip to Karaikudi in Tamil Nadu

I had visited Karaikudi 35 years ago to attend the wedding of a cousin. It was not that crowded then  nor did I see that many shops. Traffic was bearable. It was a different experience when a group of walking friends decided to visit the town  recently on a  two - in- one trip; to attend the Sadhabhishekam (80th birthday celebration) of  one of the members and also visit places of touristy  interest in and around Karaikudi.  The programme was masterminded by the wife of one of the members whose families  belong  to Karaikudi also known as capital of Chettinad, land of Chettiars. Traditionally Chettiars are well known as private bankers and money lenders  who also believed in philanthrophy . They built temples and educational institutions wherever they settled.

Eight of us decided to travel by two cars, leaving Chennai at 6 am on a Sunday morning. On the way we had breakfast  at  Murugan Idli, a new branch of the well known chain of restaurants located immediately after crossing Thindivanam on NH 4.While the restaurant offers their famous Sweet Pongal ( Chakra pongal) and Kuzhi Paniyaram to every guest , we found their  Podi  Uthappam outstanding. After a quick breakfast , we reached the Thappa Gardens, where we were booked,   by 1.pm. It is  a resort type hotel, with air conditioned cottages  surrounded by beautiful greenery, and located within the city limits.

After a simple lunch and a brief rest we were off to see Athangadi  Palace which is one amongst the many Chettinad Heritage Palaces that are still maintained well. Although the owner of the Athangudi Palace, left the palace long back. it is still used by his extended family. It is open to the public with an entry fee of Rs 50 per head.

“A house with 600 ornate windows and 64 grand rooms! With tiles imported from Italy, coloured glasses brought all the way from Belgium, intricately carved massive wooden doors and jharokhas! Massive Varandas covered in Chettinad Tiles. And beautifully coloured artwork all across” is how a visitor  describes this grand mansion in one of the literatures on the Athangadi Palace. The grandeur of the palace is to be seen to be believed. The palace follows the three porch formula – a characteristic seen in most of the Chettinad homes

When you arrive at the central courtyard of the house you see tall & heavy symmetrical pillars all around the square courtyard giving  it a very grand look. Though it is 100 years old, the house still stands strong. An important landmark worth a visit.

Our next destination was the famous Pillayarpatti Karpagavinayagar temple-( Ganesha temple) the first temple on our list of temples to be visited. Pillaiyarpatti Pillaiyar Temple is a 7th-century CE rock-cut cave shrine. When I visited this temple 35 years ago it had an open space in front without any of the Mandapams and other paraphernalia which have cropped up over the years to meet the growing number of  devotees visiting the temple. Our visit coincided with the Sayaratchai Puja (evening puja)which was in progress. Our group felt  blessed to witness the special aarthi performed as a part of the puja. After spending more than an hour in the temple we left for our next halt- the Vairavan temple devoted to Lord Siva in Vairavanpatti which is one of the nine  Nagarathar Clan Temples and belongs to a few thousand  Vairavanpatti Koil clan members.

It is a private temple which does not attract big crowds normally. But it comes alive during festive season when hordes of families attached to the temple living in other parts of the country or abroad visit the town and participate in the week long festivities.

After a quiet darshan we moved to our host`s house for dinner.

We were delighted to see a variety of delectable tiffin items including some special Chettiar items like Aadi kummayum ( sweet), Vellai paniyarum,  Milagai chutney,. Seeyum , Red rice idiyappam ,  Vengayakose and  Podi dosai.

The next morning, after a leisurely breakfast, our first visit was to the Balaji Temple in Ariyakudi, which was located very close to our hotel. It was a beautiful temple with a spacious courtyard. The main deity is called `Alamelu Manga Samedha Thiruvenagada Mudayan` and was as tall as you find Lord Balaji in Tirupathi. I had goose bumps while offering my prayers as Balaji is my favourite god. It was a very satisfying visit.

It was now time for us to visit the main item in our itinerary- visit to the famous Chettinad Maharaja`s Palace located in Kanadukathan village  also known as Kanadukathan palace. Though visitors are not allowed inside the palace, thanks to the connection that our host had with the owners of the palace we not only got permission to see the insides of the palace but were also treated like VIPs.

The palace  was built by S. Rm. M. Annamalai Chettiar in 1912. With so  many beautiful ornamental features, it is still being used by the  descendents of the original owners, M A M Ramaswamy`s son M A M R Muthiah, whenever he  visits Karaikudi. Like other palaces in Chettinad this palace also represents traditional Chettinad architecture built using materials like teak wood, marbles and granite pillars imported from abroad, mainly from East Asian countries and Europe. With a beautiful façade at the entrance, the main doors and entrances of the houses resemble the gateways of the Hindu temples.

While Ramaswamy`s family is known for the establishment of Annamalai University and other educational institutions in Chidamabaram in Tamil Nadu, Alagappa Chettiar. also known as Vallal Chettiar or the Socialist capitalist belonging to Karaikudi established  scores of educational institutions in Karaikudi itself . Many campuses of Alagappa University can be seen on either side of the beautiful & spacious college road through which we had to pass to go to Chettinad palace.

 We finished the Chettinad  Palace visit  in time to go to the host`s house for lunch- again a delectable Chettinad cuisine consisting of special items like Paruppu masiyal, Capsicum, chole and maavudu inji mandee, Pineapple rasam,. Vazhakai fry poriyal,.Cauliflower, peas , carrot uppu poriyal & Mango vella pachadi. Though the majority of  us were vegetarians, the host had ensured that the couple of  non vegetarians in the group could taste the special Chettinad chicken gravy. The lunch was topped with the desert `Kuruvai arisi (rice) payasam .

Before reaching the lunch venue the two couples in the group went shopping for Chettinad Kandangi sarees. Karaikudi is also known for  Athangudi tiles which are basically cement tiles like mosaic used for building the palatial houses in the town. Another interesting piece of news was that Indian overseas bank was founded in 1937 in Karaikudi by M Ct M Chidamabaram Chettiar.

Next & last item on the agenda was our participation in the 80th birthday ( Sadabhishekam) celebrations of a popular walking friend Veerappan Chettiar. Sadabhishekam is a religious event conducted to mark the witnessing of  thousand moons by a man during his long life. Interestingly the celebrations and the associated rituals were held in a small village called Ilayathangudi from where Veerappan`s family hailed. It is an hour`s drive from Karaikudi . The rituals were held in a special mantap,located close to the Shiva temple  with which Veeappan`s family is connected.The function was attended by not only close relatives but also by many friends who had driven down from Chennai to Karaikudi. It was a grand affair strictly following the Chettinad practices. The family of Veerappan made us feel like a part of the family. Needless to say that we not only enjoyed watching the proceedings but the tasty but simple Chettinad lunch served on the occasion.

Since we had already checked out of our hotel, after partaking the lunch our group left for Chennai around 1pm on the third day. It was a memorable trip indeed the memories of which will be cherished for a long time.

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